Fuchsia Problem Solving
Northwest Fuchsia Facts July 2002
Editor: Nancy Fraser
Good, strong growing plants are less susceptible to diseases, pests and weather conditions. Use open potting mix, keep plants positioned to avoid the shock of sudden cold or hot weather, keep plants separated for air circulation, water adequately, but don’t over water and fertilize regularly (weekly) with a one quarter strength balanced fertilizer. Do not substitute fertilizing for watering; never fertilize a dry plant. Watch your plants for problems such as:
Flower Drop Your plant has had a shock. Often this is caused by inadequate light or the plant has dried out too rapidly due to dry weather/wind.
Leaf Drop Something has caused the plant to shed leaves to survive–shock. It could be inadequate light, drying out or even over watering. Leaf drop is especially likely in hot weather.
Scorch Marks Marks on leaf tops or tips may be caused by salt damage: chemicals/fertilizers being used incorrectly or by extremely hot weather. Do not over-feed and try to minimize the effects of extreme heat by placing plants in as cool a place as possible. Be careful in selecting a previously used spray bottle for your fuchsia applications; rinse out the previous contents thoroughly, or risk poisoning the plant. Water scorched plants thoroughly.
Leaf Redness This symptom usually shows up when plants are exposed to low temperature, especially a rapid change. This redness usually causes little problem, except in plant appearance.
Rusty Red Lesions The appearance of circular red lesions on older leaves is a symptom of fungus or rust. The rust spores disperse and a dead, circular patch remains. Rust is prevalent in warm, humid weather. Remove all damaged leaves and destroy.
Small White Bugs Whitefly! Treat with one of the commercial sprays suitable for fuchsias such as Orthene, a soap solution or other recipes you may have acquired. Spray regularly, as only adults are killed. Spray over and under leaves. Avoid spraying the blossoms. Repeat spraying as needed, usually every three days.
Dusty Red Leaves Red Spider Mite! This is especially a problem in hot, dry summer weather. Isolate affected plants and spray top AND bottom of leaves with a miticide spray. Repeat spraying. Misting plants with plain water, in addition to the miticide spray, will be beneficial to the plants. If severe, prune and destroy prunings.
Grey Mold Most common in cold, wet weather. Control watering. Improve air circulation around plants. Remove and destroy all dead or damaged leaves.
Yellowing Leaves Progressive yellowing of the oldest leaves on your plants tells you that they need feeding.
Ribbons Plants that are pleasing to the judges and the point system at shows are prone to show up with prize ribbons. Cherish them and your plants. You have done a good job together.
One More Problem to Solve
Elise Sydnor, AFS Editor
Fuchsia Gall Mite is a major problem for many fuchsia growers and it often waits until the end of the season to rear its ugly head. The major symptom is twisted and blistered at the branch tips. (It looks like peach curl.) The tiny Brazilian mites cannot be seen by the naked eye, but they can cause major disfiguring of fuchsias. Look closely at your plants for early signs of an infestation. Check the inside branches of plants, too.
Cut off infected branches two or three nodes below the damage. Place pruned branches in a plastic bag, tie shut and leave it in the sun to “cook”. Disinfect pruning shears and change clothing so the mites are not transferred to a new plant. Check the plants around the affected ones to be sure they are not infected, too.
Thiodan (endosulfan), found in Cook’s Garden Insect Spray and Lilly Miller Vegetable and Fruit Spray, has been taken off the market. Ortho has introduced a reformulated version of Isotox: Isotox IV, which contains the miticide Vendex (fenbutatin-oxide) and it is labeled for fuchsia gall mite. Pick all of the blossoms off the plant so as not to attract hummingbirds and bees and spray the infected plants thoroughly. Watch for new signs of damage, cut them off and spray again if necessary.
If you can control the mite by vigilance and quick action, count your blessings. If you have a cultivar that seems to have it constantly or cannot recover from a severe attack, destroy it as you did the trimmings. Clean all garden areas thoroughly and spray with dormant spray this winter and try those cultivars next year. Branch members are beginning to keep track of those fuchsias that are more resistant to the mite so they can make suggestions to new growers. Be forewarned, though! A fuchsia that seems mite-resistant in one location can have a real problem in another garden.