Winter Care
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Final Countdown to Winter Storage
By
Verna Berger
Southwest Portland Fuchsia Club
Taffeta Bow Times, October 2003


Here we are at the beginning of October, the temperatures have finally begun to cool down and the fuchsias are loving it. They are looking better than they did during the summer, lush green foliage and such vibrant colors. It seems a shame to have to start the winter storage preparations but you may want to begin some tasks now rather than waiting and doing all tasks at once.
If you have not already done so, begin your inventory and see exactly how many potted fuchsias you are going to winter over, then select that special location that will house them until spring. This will tell you how severely the plants will need to be pruned, as you only prune back what is necessary for your plants to fit into the storage area.
Some people begin pruning back prior to the first frost. This is fine; however, to prevent bleeding of mature harder brown wood, prune only the soft, supple, green growing tips. If bleeding does occur, you may dab the cut end with a Q-tip dipped in 3% Hydrogen Peroxide, and be sure to give sufficient drying time before placing inside. Failure to do this may result in bacteria or fungus finding a receptive place to settle in and create a diseased plant in the spring.
At this time our fuchsias are maturing, the berries (seedpods) are enlarging and some leaves are beginning to turn yellow. Continuing fall weather accompanied by rain and wind should bring the onset of defoliation. This is good because the more nature does, the less work for you.
Triphylla types such as ‘Thalia’, ‘Coralle’ and ‘Gartenmeister Bonstadt’ should not be left outside in temperatures below 45&Mac176;. Bring them inside to a storage area prior to any frost. They will love you for it.
After a couple of frosts, remove any remaining foliage, make sure all pots are clean on the outside as well as free of debris on top of the soil. Heaven forbid we provide a haven for hibernating insects.
As added protection, you may wish to use a soil drench at this time to ensure complete eradication of any insects or their eggs that may be concealed under the surface of the soil. Before using a soil drench be sure the plants have been watered thoroughly and are moist all the way through. Applying a drench to a dry plant will result in root damage and possibly a dead plant. One-fourth cup of chlorine bleach to five gallons of water should kill any insects or eggs remaining in the soil. Allow this drench to run completely through. You may want to elevate the plant a little, so it can drain completely.
Be sure not to neglect watering. Our little beauties may be dormant on top, but their roots are not dormant. More fuchsias are lost during winter due to lack of water than to freezing. As a general rule, larger plants will be fine with water once a month. How about using holidays, as an easy reminder? Thanksgiving, Christmas, Martin Luther King's Birthday and Valentine's Day are easy dates to remember. Plants in smaller containers should be checked every couple of weeks, however, as they will dry out more quickly.
Now, let's talk about storage areas. People have come up with some very innovative methods, and as long as the basic requirements of the fuchsias are met, any of them are fine. Be creative.
Here in the Pacific Northwest, we can have some very mild winters, so you may be able to get by with storing fuchsias outside. A protected area such as under a porch, on a deck or patio, up against a wall or even under a patio table will work. Keep a tarp, or something similar, to cover them should the temperatures dip toward freezing. For a prolonged cold spell, you will have to bring them inside until temperatures rise.
Other ideas include a large box, chest, bin, garbage container or even a large black plastic bag, well insulated with shredded paper, dry leaves, vermiculite, bark dust, peat moss, etc., will suffice. There should be 6-8 inches of insulation between the plants and all outside walls of the container.
A storage area well above freezing with light, will leave the plants somewhat active, requiring good air circulation and probably more frequent watering. Don't let your plants dry out. It is also helpful to provide a little humidity by misting the branches periodically.
This may sound like a commercial, but, while not recommending a particular brand, a Moisture Meter is very helpful in determining the amount of moisture in the soil and, if indeed, the plant really needs water. This small investment just may save you the loss of one of your favorite fuchsias